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A cozinha de Dona Brazi

Foi emocionante: antes de eu voltar à casa, Dona Brazi me levou a comprar, no Mercado Municipal de São Gabriel da Cachoeira, os ingredientes de um prato de traíra moqueada que eu levaria para fazer em São Paulo.

Mercado Municipal de São Gabriel da Cachoeira

Mercado Municipal de São Gabriel da Cachoeira

Queria compartilhar com a querida Fernanda Valdívia, cozinheira, padeira e confeiteira, e meu amigo Carlos Alberto Dória, sociológo e crítico gastronômico, uma pitada da experiência de almoçar e jantar três dias seguidos na casa da Dona Brazi, em São Gabriel.

Eu estava lá a trabalho pelo Instituto Socioambiental, apoiando o Projeto Yaripo de concepção de uma startup de ecoturismo sustentável e base comunitária dos Yanomami no Pico da Neblina (sobre isso, leia os três posts anteriores: “A startup de ecoturismo“, “Partiu a expedição ao Pico da Neblina” e “Planejando a expedição“).

IMG_9343 (1)

Traíras moqueadas à venda 

Escolhi o “Desfiado de Traíra Moqueada” porque os únicos ingredientes que eu precisaria levar seriam a própria traíra, defumada à moda indígena da Amazônia, e a pimenta de cheiro.

O resto  –  cebola roxa, coentro, salsa, cebolinha, limão e sal  –  se encontra facilmente em São Paulo, claro. A receita está no livro da Editora Bei, “Dona Brazi: Cozinha Tradicional Amazônica“, de Maria da Paz Trefaut.

Dona Josefa Antônia Gonçalves, como se chama ela na verdade, pertence à etnia indígena Baré e se tornou conhecida pelas deliciosas receitas de comidas típicas, que primam pela simplicidade e criatividade no uso de “pancs” (produtos alimentícios não convencionais) da Amazônia.


Traíra moqueada prestes a ser desfiada

Foi ela quem chamou a atenção da gastronomia brasileira para um ingrediente nada convencional da culinária amazônica, que são os diversos tipos de formigas comestíveis, sobretudo as saúvas com sabor picante e aroma de capim-santo.

A refeição completa na Dona Brazi custa R$ 35,00, incluindo salada, prato principal, acompanhamentos, suco e sobremesa. Segue a lista de tudo que provei:

  • Mini-piabinhas fritas
  • Vinagrete de formigas saúvas.
  • Desfiado de traíra moqueada.
  • Ensopado de queixada com mandioca da roça
  • Baião de dois.
  • Ensopado de paca
  • Cará assado com cebola e repolho
  • Revirado de tatu moqueado
  • Mujeca de piraíba
  • Cascata de surubim
  • Banana pacova ao forno, assada na casca, com mel, canela e geléia de açai.
  • Cubiu em calda com tirinhas de folha de laranjeira
  • Creme de maracujá-do-mato
  • Creme de cupuaçu

Todas as receitas estão no livro da Maria da Paz Trefaut, “Dona Brazi: Cozinha Tradicional Amazônica“, da Editora Bei.

O livro de receitas

Faço minhas as palavras do chef Alex Atala, no prefácio do livro:

“Dona Brazi é mais do que uma simples cozinheira. É uma defensora da cultura, a mantenedora de uma sabedoria difundida por gerações que corre o risco de desaparecer se não for protegida. Proteger, importante lembrar, não é simplesmente catalogar: é dar vida.”

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Planejador de marca e comunicação. Fundador da agência NBS e do Grupo de Planejamento de São Paulo. Ex- Presidente e atual consultor do Conselho Diretor do Instituto Socioambiental. Saiba mais