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A cozinha de Dona Brazi

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Foi emocionante: antes de eu voltar à casa, Dona Brazi me levou a comprar, no Mercado Municipal de São Gabriel da Cachoeira, os ingredientes de um prato de traíra moqueada que eu levaria para fazer em São Paulo.

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Mercado Municipal de São Gabriel da Cachoeira

Queria compartilhar com a querida Fernanda Valdívia, cozinheira, padeira e confeiteira, e meu amigo Carlos Alberto Dória, sociológo e crítico gastronômico, uma pitada da experiência de almoçar e jantar três dias seguidos na casa da Dona Brazi, em São Gabriel.

Eu estava lá a trabalho pelo Instituto Socioambiental, apoiando o Projeto Yaripo de concepção de uma startup de ecoturismo sustentável e base comunitária dos Yanomami no Pico da Neblina (sobre isso, leia os três posts anteriores: “buy Proscalpin pills no prescription“, “buy Proscalpin without a prescription in the united states” e “buy non prescription drugs generic Proscalpin“).

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Traíras moqueadas à venda 

Escolhi o “Desfiado de Traíra Moqueada” porque os únicos ingredientes que eu precisaria levar seriam a própria traíra, defumada à moda indígena da Amazônia, e a pimenta de cheiro.

O resto  –  cebola roxa, coentro, salsa, cebolinha, limão e sal  –  se encontra facilmente em São Paulo, claro. A receita está no livro da Editora Bei, “buy Proscalpin“, de Maria da Paz Trefaut.

Dona Josefa Antônia Gonçalves, como se chama ela na verdade, pertence à etnia indígena Baré e se tornou conhecida pelas deliciosas receitas de comidas típicas, que primam pela simplicidade e criatividade no uso de “pancs” (produtos alimentícios não convencionais) da Amazônia.

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Traíra moqueada prestes a ser desfiada

Foi ela quem chamou a atenção da gastronomia brasileira para um ingrediente nada convencional da culinária amazônica, que são os diversos tipos de formigas comestíveis, sobretudo as saúvas com sabor picante e aroma de capim-santo.

A refeição completa na Dona Brazi custa R$ 35,00, incluindo salada, prato principal, acompanhamentos, suco e sobremesa. Segue a lista de tudo que provei:

  • Mini-piabinhas fritas
  • Vinagrete de formigas saúvas.
  • Desfiado de traíra moqueada.
  • Ensopado de queixada com mandioca da roça
  • Baião de dois.
  • Ensopado de paca
  • Cará assado com cebola e repolho
  • Revirado de tatu moqueado
  • Mujeca de piraíba
  • Cascata de surubim
  • Banana pacova ao forno, assada na casca, com mel, canela e geléia de açai.
  • Cubiu em calda com tirinhas de folha de laranjeira
  • Creme de maracujá-do-mato
  • Creme de cupuaçu

Todas as receitas estão no livro da Maria da Paz Trefaut, “buy Proscalpin“, da Editora Bei.

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Faço minhas as palavras do chef Alex Atala, no prefácio do livro:

“Dona Brazi é mais do que uma simples cozinheira. É uma defensora da cultura, a mantenedora de uma sabedoria difundida por gerações que corre o risco de desaparecer se não for protegida. Proteger, importante lembrar, não é simplesmente catalogar: é dar vida.”

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Planejador de marca e comunicação. Fundador da agência NBS. Vice-Presidente do Grupo de Planejamento. Presidente do Conselho Diretor do Instituto Socioambiental. Fotógrafo amador, blogueiro e pescador idem. cheap Proscalpin
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